Released in 2013, Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Oud would seem appealing to those who can’t stand medicinal and tickling oud and who aren’t afraid to experiment with different types of rose. Here neither Rose nor Oud are as we are used to smell them, – that’s why it took me a while to understand it. Or rather to try to understand, because even now it’s still difficult to find the right adjective to describe such a fashionable rose&oud couple, composed by Patricia de Nicolai.
The first seconds bring a wide blast of classic fruity rose which immediately gets dirtier and carnal. The rose almost instantly disappears and makes way for musk and animalistic notes. The scent becomes saltier and more sour. There’s the soft presence of oud, amber and wood, however they don’t get too heavy due to the still sparkling rose. It seems that in the heart Rose Oud gets more relaxed and leans back in its chair, becoming more and more black, smooth and leathery. Unfortunately, such feeling doesn’t last until the base, which remains only with a simple (even if elegant) musky rose. It lacks depth and imagination; it would be much nicer to see the dirtiness and wildness of it come to a more dramatic end, instead of simply vanishing on its way without daring to step out. On the other hand, maybe it suits those who are beautiful and flawless, yet want to show a part of their wild side… but then stop and put their mask back, because they’d better not. You might be dying to take its clothes off but time’s up and everything comes back to normal.