Histoires de Parfums 1969 and sexual revolution.

What perfume should one use for parties and relaxing talks followed by one or two cocktails? Something not heavy and not suffocating, not too subtle and not sad. Leave L’Heure Bleue for gloomy days and feminine raincoats. Forget the candied La Vie est Belle and beloved classics: choose something stunning and unexpected but not necessarily plain.  Such an original and intriguing fragrance with no teenage candyfloss is Histoires de Parfums 1969, inspired by the sexual revolution with Woodstock, hippies and love.

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What is it about? What revolution? What does revolution smell like? Gunpowder, sweat, dust? Or maybe like peaches, coffee and cocoa powder? Maybe like cardamom, rose and patchouli? The first notes of 1969 bring a fruity boozy blast. I immediately imagine dried pineapples and apricots dusted in sweet white powder. What is next? Pure and clear rum. Coffee steam. Then comes patchouli which is why the fragrance gets so peculiar. Dry cocoa patchouli does not care about others and covers the initial peaches and pineapples. If there was just a drop of patchouli too many, the whole 1969 composition would immediately turn into a nauseous rotten fruit in a sticky plastic bag. Fortunately, the amount of patchouli here is just right and instead of ruining everything it reduces its power and helps the fruity side bloom.

The scent becomes undefinable. It seems as if there were two perfumes at once and they do not know what they are doing together. On the other hand, there is a strange idea of integrity and the feeling that nothing exists for no reason. After the head notes fade away, a new sensation of something sour takes place: it must be hibiscus tea, better known as karkadé.

An intensely red and fresh impression gets softer and more subtle on skin rather than on paper. There is also a little bit of rose, clove, cardamom, musk and bitter cocoa – everything dressed up in a boozy peachy fog.

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1969 is a new experience for tired and disappointed noses. Yes, it is rather sweet – can be too sweet for every day use. A nice and smooth base of musk and not-too-much patchouli remains very rounded and appealing. It is sweet but not candied. It might seem rather primitive, however it turns up to be much more complicated. It is sour yet very feminine. It loves itself and can be happy for others. It is different. Relaxed and with no thick skin.

Especially suitable for a night out and for an open back dress. Let the revolution begin in the head.

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Cuir Velours, suede tobacco.

Saturday mornings in many European big cities often consist of an early walk to the farmers market looking for some fresh fish and fruit for a big long dinner with a couple of well-mannered guests who never forget a bottle of good wine and chocolates for your kids. The dinner goes on and on, everybody gets sleepy and drowns in comfortable armchairs to smoke or to have a drop of something stronger and fermented. There is no hurry, it is getting dark outside, the first street lights appear and suddenly the time stops.

Naomi Goodsir is an Australian hat designer who is trying to embrace the perfume world. In 2012 she presented a nice fragrance Cuir Velours. For those who are used to hard thick leather in perfumes, Cuir Velours will reveal quite the opposite version of it. 

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Cuir Velours is soft suede drowned in a smooth tobacco cloud and framed with four bowls of peaches. The first notes are resinous and waxy. Then immediately rum and peach come in, or better peaches in rum, left to soak properly for gourmand desserts. There is creamy and embracing rising fog with a bit of incense and light vanilla: one can almost see the sleepy dining room after the chic dinner and lazy half-empty glasses. The room is filled with shadows and nobody turns the lights on, because several luxurious home candles are just right to create intimate and cozy atmosphere. 

Cuir Velours carries its creamy immortelle sweetness through all the stages of development and so the overall result is complete laziness and drowsiness in an elegant room where you can relax on a soft champagne leather sofa. Just as people say that money does not bring happiness but somehow it is more comfortable to cry in a Mercedes than on a bicycle.

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Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours is a slightly tipsy, careless, full and satisfied Saturday afternoon with no sense of guilt. Smooth, velvety, not too sweet and with no headache yet. Dense, creamy and a little buttery. A hug which makes you relax and warms up your fingers and toes.